Though it lies at the junction of five rivers, on the banks of the huge Patos Lagoon, Porto Alegre manages instead to conjure images of the dry, dusty deserts of Spaghetti Westerns. As the Brazilian birthplace of the gauchos – the South American cowboys who are more commonly associated with Argentina – Porto Alegre has an aggressively independent spirit that no one can quite tame. The natives here share a love of massive open spaces and grilled meats. Even Porto Alegre’s home s...
Though it lies at the junction of five rivers, on the banks of the huge Patos Lagoon, Porto Alegre manages instead to conjure images of the dry, dusty deserts of Spaghetti Westerns. As the Brazilian birthplace of the gauchos – the South American cowboys who are more commonly associated with Argentina – Porto Alegre has an aggressively independent spirit that no one can quite tame. The natives here share a love of massive open spaces and grilled meats. Even Porto Alegre’s home state – Rio Grande do Sul, or “Big River of the South” – will remind Americans of their own Big River back home.
That said, Porto Alegre is also the well-populated capital of Rio Grande do Sul and consequently maintains a deep vein of queer-friendly, progressive politics. In fact, queer people have enjoyed the right to domestic partnerships here since 2012. (Brazil didn't legalize same-sex marriage until the following year.) For those advances, you can credit the artists and musicians who historically fled their cowboy lives to congregate here. And though the rest of "gaucho country" leans toward the conservative side, queers have nothing to fear here. As a bonus, Porto Alegre even has less crime and poverty than other parts of Brazil.
However, while many see Porto Alegre as a stopover between Brazil and Argentina, there’s still plenty to do and see here. After all, it’s a hub of industry, commerce, and production – second only to São Paulo in that sense. Between Avenida Maua and Avenida Ipiranga, tourists will find plenty of outdoor cafés, craft beer hubs, high-end boutiques, and rainbow flag-clad restaurants. Architecture lovers will also appreciate the neoclassical facades of Porto Alegre’s many historic homes and museums. Praça da Matriz, specifically, is a clear window into Porto Alegre’s past. Additionally, the Parque Farroupilha is a beautiful place to while away the afternoon. Porto-Alegrenses love its weekend flea market, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find someone who hasn’t made an excellent buy there. That doesn’t mean you should sleep on Porto’s other shopping hot spots, though. The Rua de Praia and Bourbon Assis Brasi shopping centers are not just great places to browse. They’re also epicenters of cruising. Escândalo!
Overall, Porto has more of a European flair than other Brazilian cities, thus aligning it more with nearby Buenos Aires than with Rio de Janeiro. For that, you can thank the city’s historical tendency to welcome immigrants from Portugal, Spain, Italy, and Germany. And while the city’s cuisine certainly taps into those countries’ culinary traditions, it also boasts local specialties of its own. You absolutely can’t leave Porto without trying its churrasco (Brazilian barbecue) or chimarrão (its local yerba maté). Then, when you’re done soaking in Porto's wonders, you can take a direct train to nearby Uruguay or Argentina. Like a true cowboy, you can then stare wistfully into the beautiful sunset as it falls like a warm blanket over the Guaíba river.
